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oai:gredos.usal.es:10366/1553672025-04-30T20:41:42Zcom_10366_137251com_10366_4512com_10366_3823col_10366_137252

2024-02-06T09:38:00Z urn:hdl:10366/155367 Phenolic acids, cinnamic acid, and ergosterol as cosmeceutical ingredients: Stabilization by microencapsulation to ensure sustained bioactivity Taofiq, Oludemi Heleno, Sandrina A. Calhelha, Ricardo C. Fernandes, Isabel P. Alves, Maria José Barros, Lillian Bouçada de González Paramás, Ana María Ferreira, Isabel C.F.R. Barreiro, Maria F. Bioactive compounds Cosmeceuticals Bioactive properties Microencapsulation Controlled release [EN] The global cosmetic industry is constantly searching for new ingredients with multifunctional properties. In this context, phenolic compounds (p-hydroxybenzoic, p-coumaric, and protocatechuic acids), cinnamic acid and ergosterol were evaluated for their anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities, and thereafter microencapsulated by the atomization/coagulation technique. After characterization (morphology, particle size distribution and encapsulation efficiency), the microencapsulated compounds were incorporated into a semi-solid base cream and their performance evaluated comparatively with the use of the free forms. The cosmeceutical formulations were checked regarding the presence of the bioactive compounds by HPLC-DAD, and for their physicochemical properties (colour and pH). The obtained results demonstrated the anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities of the individual compounds that, after incorporation, have shown a decreasing pattern along time. On the contrary, the formulations incorporating the microencapsulated bioactive compounds gave rise to a gradual release, ensuring bioactivity maintenance. These results underline the advantage of using microencapsulation to preserve and ensure the controlled release of bioactive species in cosmeceutical formulations. 2024-02-06T09:38:00Z 2024-02-06T09:38:00Z 2019 info:eu-repo/semantics/article 0026-265X http://hdl.handle.net/10366/155367 10.1016/j.microc.2019.03.059 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.microc.2019.03.059 info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess